Very few producers attempt to produce wines without any added sulfur dioxide at all. There are a slightly larger group who don’t use any during the winemaking process but add some at bottling. But, given the utility of sulfur dioxide, what is the motivation for doing without it? First, some citizens have a desire to build wine with no additions whatsoever, considering they are committed to their vision of natural wines. Second, some citizens think that wines with no sulfur added have an aromatic purity and elegance that is worth taking a huge risk for.

I’ve had mixed experiences with no-sulfur added wines, but sufficient good ones that keep me pursuing that topic with interest. Yes, I know it’s madness to try to produce commercial wines without sulfur additions, but I admire humans who try. And in that case, the wine is utterly great - much, much more interesting and arguably better than any South African wine at that price point that I’ve so far tasted.

Stellar Organics Cabernet Sauvignon No Added Sulphur 2006 Western Cape
Made from organically grown grapes, with no added sulfur dioxide. A great deep red/black colour, that looks like a barrel sample. It has a wonderfully perfumed, seductive nose of pure sweet blackcurrant fruit with an earthy edge and some gravelly minerally notes in the background. The palate is concentrated and quite lush, but underneath the sweet dark fruit lies a complex earthy core with a very subtle spicy green herby note adding an additional dimension. Despite the fact that that is quite a big wine, there’s a lovely elegance here, and a delicious textural richness. I reckon you need to drink that gorgeously forward wine in the first flush of its youth: I suspect it will taste a bit tired and go all earthy by that instance next year. 90/100 (£6.50 Vintage Roots, on offer a £5.95 until 11 January 2008)