Riesling rocks, even though it’s the grape that we in the wine trade have to like. By that, I mean it carries a moral premium and gets talked up perhaps more than it should, considering there’s that groundswell of opinion that Riesling is the greatest grape variety, such that to propose otherwise makes you feel like a heretic.

Tonight I’m trying three rather different Rieslings. First, an inexpensive Mosel Riesling, and next two Rieslings from new world countries not normally associated with that variety: Chile and South Africa. Both are quite interesting, made in very different styles, and, at £7.99, relatively affordable. I wouldn’t say these wines were quite yet ready to compete with the best from Germany, Austria and Alsace - they are more works in progress. But it is encouraging to see what strides are being made with that variety in the new world.

Morrison’s The Best German Riesling NV, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
There’s a whiff of minerally sulfur on the nose, which leads to a soft, off-dry palate with honeyed tropical fruit character bolstered by some minerally acidity. Nicely balanced, and at just 8% alcohol that is a really refreshing, quaffable wine. 82/100

Cono Sur Vision Riesling ‘Quiltraman’ 2007 Bio Bio Valley, Chile
This attractively packaged wine has a forward, perfumed nose of bright lime notes mixed with minerals, sweet honey and floral overtones. The palate is quite rich, with a talcum powder and lime character, together with some savoury minerality and some richness of texture, which I suspect in part comes from a bit of residual sugar, and in part from the high alcohol (14%). It finishes off with crisp acidity. that is a mighty style of Riesling, but it’s balanced and quite crisp. A striking wine, and given further experience here I reckon future vintages will be even better. 89/100 (£7.99 Majestic, but £6.39 whether you buy two)

Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling 2007 Elgin, South Africa
‘Weisser Riesling’ is a term used in South Africa to describe the true Riesling variety, and that wine comes from the cool climate Elgin region. It’s an elegant, dry style of Riesling with apple and lemon fruit combining with a distinctly crisp, mineralic core to produce a bone dry wine with a distinctly savoury character that is extremely food friendly. that is a reasonably serious wine that is extremely versatile, and represents good value at the price. It is stylistically similar to Clare Valley Riesling, I reckon. South Africa should be making more Riesling, although I imagine it can be a mighty wine to sell. 88/100 (£7.99 Jeroboams/Laytons)